For more than 200 years, on Holy Monday in Cusco, the figure is dressed in
beautiful clothing. It is positioned onto a platform adorned with red ñucchu
flowers. Dozens of men hoist the platform onto their shoulders and solemnly
parade him out of the Cusco Cathedral. They then parade around the streets
of the historic center, and back to the Plaza de Armas.
Palm Sunday
For Cusco locals, the other days of Semana Santa are also important. On
Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), people go to church to
celebrate the entrance of Jesus to Israel and to receive bouquets of
rosemary and palm tree leaves. Since all the churches are open on this day,
travelers can get into any of them without paying the usual tourist
admission fee. (be sure to be respectful and refrain from taking pictures.)
Traditional Cusco Easter Food
Food is another significant aspect of Easter in Peru. It represents both a
sign of gratitude and an opportunity to rejoice after a long Lenten fast. On
Thursday, it is customary to taste the
twelve different traditional dishes. Because of the
Catholic prohibition against eating red meat during Lent, most plates
feature Andean plants, grains, and vegetables abundant in the area, such as
potatoes,
corn, and squash. Some dishes may include fish or shrimp. And then there are
a whole range of delicious desserts such as arroz con leche, mazamorra,
apple and peach compotes, empanadas de semana santa, rosquitas, and many
more.
Good Friday
Good Friday is a lot quieter than the other days as people are commemorating
the death of Christ, though there are still smaller processions in the
center. Also, in Cusco, people from the countryside come to the city and set
up a market to sell medicinal plants, which is a tradition that stems from
ancient times. On Friday, some families make a trip to Calca in the
Sacred Valley
to see the local procession of Santo Sepulcro involving Jesus in a coffin
and the mourning Virgin Mary. The townspeople would construct flower carpets
on the streets and wear black as a sign of mourning. Back in Cusco, Saturday
and Sunday also tend to be quieter, and most activity revolves around church
services. On these days, she recommends walking around traditional markets
like San Pedro to see local products.
Travel Tip
The first part of Holy Week is very busy and crowded in Cusco and some
churches like the Cusco Cathedral close to organized tour groups on Monday.
But the latter part of the week is usually quieter and a good time to
explore and walk around. On Good Friday, many businesses close their doors,
but tourist services, including restaurants and shops as well as discos and
bars, remain open.
Easter in Ayacucho
Ayacucho, located
in the central Peruvian highlands and the capital of the Huamanga Province,
is nationally recognized for celebrating the
best Semana Santa festivities in the entire country. The
city welcomes thousands of visitors every year to this Catholic festivity
while becoming home to flower carpet exhibitions, firework displays, bull
chases, and religious reenactments.
The ten days leading up to Easter Sunday illustrates Ayacucho’s
transformation from a city of solemn processions to one of intensive
partying.
A brief history
Ayacucho’s history has always been synonymous with the Battle of Ayacucho,
the last armed clash between Spanish armies and the patriots during the
Peruvian War of Independence. The Patriots’ triumph in the battle helped
seal Peru’s independence on December 9, 1824. Ayacucho’s proud history is
not lost and observed during the week-long celebration of Semana Santa.
Palm Sunday
The festivities begin on Palm Sunday, which is characterized by two
essential traditions. At noon there is a massive caravan of mules carrying
dried flowers accompanied by several orchestras playing folklore music.
After processing around the plaza, the palms are burned and buried during a
religious ceremony. Later in the afternoon, a statue of Christ is carried on
a white mule across the city, with thousands of people taking golden palms
and eventually concluding at the Cathedral.
Holy Wednesday and Good Friday
Holy Wednesday marks another symbolic celebration with the allegorical
reenactment of the meeting between Christ and the Virgin Mary at the Plaza
de Armas. Visitors can expect a massive reception for this emotional
ceremony, so it is recommended to arrive early and find the right spot. On
Good Friday, all the lights of the city are turned off for a beautiful
candlelit procession of the deceased Jesus and Virgin Mary.
traditional Festivities
It is, however after Good Friday that Ayacucho turns from
solemn to a celebratory mood as the city becomes an
open-air market filled with crafts, food, and music. There
are numerous art shows, folk dancing, concerts, sporting events, and local
food contests from which to explore. Visitors can immerse themselves with
the local culture. This includes drinking chicha horchata, a popular drink
made of ground almonds, sesame seeds, rice, and barley. Traditionally,
chewing on coca leaves has also been a significant aspect of Andean culture,
for it provides a powerful stimulant.
Caballos de Paso
The celebrations reach its climax with the infamous horse races featuring
Peruvian Caballos de Paso and the running of bulls known locally as the
jalatoro. On Saturday morning at around 11 am, a total of six bulls are
released every half hour from the Alameda Bolognesi into a cordoned-off area
of the city, marks the beginning of the party, and continues late into the
night with dancing and orchestras being performed all around the main
square.
Easter Sunday
On Easter Sunday, the religious rites begin again and culminate in an
outlandish celebration of Christ’s resurrection. At 5 am, before dawn, the
resurrected Christ is carried out of the cathedral atop a huge white pyramid
adorned over 2,000 candles. Hundreds of people then carry the pyramid, which
goes around the plaza until 7 am, amid ringing bells, and powering
fireworks. A fitting end to an extraordinary week of festivities begins with
tears of sorrow and ends with re-invigoration and newfound hope.
Semana Santa is the perfect reason to visit Ayacucho. Along with being
blessed by its beautiful highland, the city is also famous for its
colonial-style architecture and its 33 churches, one for each year of
Jesus’s life.